By Jean-Louis Flandrin
The series within which nutrients has been served at food has replaced enormously over the centuries and has additionally diversified from one state to a different, a truth famous in nearly each culinary background. so much meals writers have handled the extra major changes as stand-alone occasions. the main well-known instance of any such swap happened within the 19th century, whilst provider à l. a. française—in which the lovely presentation made an exceptional express yet diners needed to wait to be served—gave option to carrier à l. a. russe, within which platters have been handed between diners who served themselves. yet in Arranging the Meal, the overdue culinary historian Jean-Louis Flandrin argues that the sort of swap within the order of nutrients provider is much from a unique occasion. as a substitute he regards it as a ancient phenomenon, one who occurred in accordance with socioeconomic and cultural factors—another mutation in an ever-changing series of customs. As France's such a lot illustrious culinary historian, Flandrin has turn into a cult determine in France, and this posthumous ebook isn't just his ultimate be aware but additionally an important contribution to culinary scholarship. A foreword by means of Beatrice Fink areas Flandrin's paintings in context and gives a private remembrance of this French culinary hero.
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Additional info for Arranging the Meal: A History of Table Service in France
Only wild boar is roasted on a spit, and even then, only young wild boar is explicitly indicated for roast. In the 1674 L’Art de bien traiter, the only large wild game appears in 5 recipes for adult and young wild boar, the latter accounting for 3 roasts or 60 percent of the recipes for this type of food. In 1660, Le Nouveau Cuisinier offers 7 roasts out of 26 large wild game recipes, or 27 percent. 19 Lastly, Le Cuisinier françois in 1651 contains 9 roasts out of 26 large-game recipes (a ratio of 35 percent), and it likewise accepts the roasting of adult animals.
Still, the menus reveal that furred game was used for roast less often than feathered game but more often than butcher’s meat and even domestic fowl: the same three menus feature furred game as a roast and as an hors d’oeuvre with equal frequency (twice) and never as an entrée or soup. In conclusion, the various types of meat were distributed very differently among the stages of the meal: Organ meats were used only for hors d’oeuvres and entrées or entremets. Butcher’s meat provided hardly any roasts (1 to 3 out of 127 butcher’s meat recipes), few entremets (19), but many entrées (103) and hors d’oeuvres (23).
9 Eggs tended to be eaten mainly on meatless days, and only then were they served as entrées. 10 Although there was no church ruling against eating meatless dishes on meat days, egg entrée recipes for meatless days may not be the ideal example of what could be served as entremets at other times. La Cuisinière bourgeoise, with no mention of meat or meatless days, categorizes “Eggs à la jardinière” as an entrée. ”11 But let there be no confusion: whatever their preparation, eggs served on meat days could be served only as entremets.
Arranging the Meal: A History of Table Service in France by Jean-Louis Flandrin